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Wenshan Paochong tea

  Taiwan first exported oolong tea in 1865, but by 1873 sales were poor. Then in 1881 Wu Fulao introduced the Paochong tea production method invented by Wang Yicheng in Anxi County in Fujian Province. This Oolong tea was made using the Chin-Shin-Oolong variety of tea plant (with scent added). As this plant was commonly known as “Chong-Zai,” and the tea was wrapped (pao) in square Chinese writing paper, it came to be widely known as “wrapped chong” (paochong) tea.

  In 1912 a new method of producing “improved Paochong tea” began to be used in Nangang, Neihu, and Shenkeng. With this method there was no added scent but the tea still gave off a floral aroma. In 1920, following changes in the market resulting from war, it fell upon two individuals—Wei Jingshi and Wang Shuijin—to teach and promote the production of relatively high-priced “improved Paochong tea,” which became the foundation for the modern manufacturing method for Paochong tea. Production areas back in the day were in locations that are today under the jurisdiction of New Taipei City and Taipei City. Back in the era of Japanese rule (1895-1945) most fell within the Wenshan District of Taipei Prefecture, and the tea came to be called Wenshan Paochong tea.

  Wenshan Paochong tea is a lightly fermented tea in the category of partially fermented tea. On Taiwan specialty tea flavor wheels it is in the category of Fragrant Strip-Shaped Baozhong (Paochong) tea. The main cultivars of tea plants for this type of tea are Chin-Shin-Oolong and TTES No.12. Production areas are spread across the Pinglin, Shiding, Shenkeng, Pingxi, Xizhi, Xindian, and Sanxia districts of New Taipei City and in the Nangang and Muzha districts of Taipei City.

  The production process for Wenshan Paochong tea is as follows: fresh tea leaves→solar withering→indoor withering and stirring→panning→rolling→mass breaking→primary drying→drying. The raw fresh tea leaves are best when they are at the terminal banjhi leaf stage, with soft and plump leaves and a light green color. The picking of overly tender fresh tea leaves is to be avoided, as this leads to the finished tea being bitter and without fragrance.

  In appearance, Wenshan Paochong tea has naturally curled leaves that are neat and tightly wrapped, while the color is a somewhat glossy black-green. The liquor color of the tea is honey-yellow and green, while the taste is full-bodied, sweet, mellow, and brisk, whereas the fragrance is fresh. The best Wenshan Paochong tea has an elegant aroma that flows into the nostrils, and it is a type of tea for which special emphasis is laid upon the fragrance. When drinking it, not only does the tea has a smooth flavor and aftertaste and is brisk, at the same time one can enjoy the floral aroma that flows into the nostrils. With its five major characteristics of “fragrance, fullness, boldness, aftertaste, and fineness,” Wenshan Paochong tea stands out as exceptional among teas.

Figure 1: The appearance of Wenshan Paochong tea.
Figure 1: The appearance of Wenshan Paochong tea.

Figure 2: The liquor color of steeped Wenshan Paochong tea.
Figure 2: The liquor color of steeped Wenshan Paochong tea.

 

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